Smaller yarn + bigger hooks = a better drape. What is drape you ask? It refers to the way the fabric hangs and moves on your body. Bulkier yarn is going to be stiff and have little drape, especially with crochet (she is miss yarn eater, after all). Knit tends to use less yarn-- it creates a weft fabric, whilst crochet is essentially a fabric made of knots. That is not to say that crochet can't drape, but yarn choice is important to achieving this.
1. Yarn weight matters.
When making a crochet garment, I never use a yarn larger than a DK weight. While my personal favorite is fingering/sock weight yarn, sport weight is also great if you need a little extra heft without sacrificing drape.
This isn't to say you can't use a higher weight of yarn-- there truly are no rules when it comes to fiber arts. It is just that a plentiful amount of trial and error the last 8 years have led me to the conclusion that lighter yarn weights make a crochet garment fabric drape closer to that of a knit, if that is your end goal.
2. Use a larger hook than the recommended size.
That doesn't mean using a size 10 hook on a little thread weight yarn, but size up .25-1mm than what the yarn recommends for added drape. Just be aware that the larger the hook, the bigger gaps you will have in your stitches. Always make and block a swatch to test it out-- it is all about preference.
3. Using a single ply yarn.
I find when using a single ply fingering weight merino wool, it gives a crochet garment such a beautiful soft, drapey texture. A single ply yarn consists of one strand of fibers twisted to form the complete yarn, while a multi-ply yarn consists of 2 or more strand of fibers twisted together. The amount of plies is important to note as it will change the entire structure of your garment.
I love this quote from craftiss.com, "When comparing yarns, avoid the trap of assuming more plies always mean better quality. A well-spun single ply merino wool outperforms a loosely twisted three-ply acrylic in many applications."
Cons of single ply: it can be prone to pill and break more easily. It can be difficult to frog single ply wool, especially if it has slightly felted together.
4. Block your garments!
A garment's structure can completely change with a simple blocking, especially if you are using a superwash merino wool. Not only will the garment grow slightly in size, but it will also make the individual stitches a little more loose and uniform. This is why making and blocking a swatch is so important before you start a project-- you will be able to see and feel how the final fabric will come out. Don't like the swatch test? Change your yarn or hook size.
5. Investing in your yarn choices.
Well spun, quality yarn is so important, and making the investment is crucial for a garment that will last. You may not want to hear this, but my unpopular opinion is that acrylic yarn is not great for wearables. I primarily stick to plant & animal-based fibers. However, I have my reasons so don't come for me!
1) Acrylic garments are very insulating, and can become incredibly hot and uncomfortable, even if deceptively soft to the touch.
2) When crocheting or knitting with it, you can inhale the plastic fibers.
3) Acrylic doesn't decompose at the same rate as a natural/animal fibers, so it will be on our earth for long after we are gone, only further adding to textile waste, one of the fastest growing environmental disasters of our lifetimes.
Let me get off my soap box for a minute to say that I will never villainize someone who uses acrylic yarn. It's easily accessible and affordable for many. At the end of the day, if you are creating clothes instead of buying fast fashion, you are doing better than most.
I know that not everyone can afford brand new skeins of yarn, but there are many places you can find quality materials for a fraction of the price: eBay, estate sales, FB marketplace, yard sales, thrift stores-- there are even some areas that have secondhand craft supplies stores. Many fiber artists online occasionally de-stash their own yarn for a cheaper price than they bought it for.
Happy crocheting!
Lizzy
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